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May 10, 2022

Eatery debuts on Long Wharf; Fusco residential tower plan shelved (for now)

PHOTO | Liese Klein Valentin Stakaj at his new Il Gabbiano Italian steakhouse at 501 Long Wharf Dr. on May 10, 2022.
By Liese Klein

A veteran New Haven restaurateur debuted his newest Italian concept at the former Lenny & Joe’s Fish Tale on Long Wharf Drive this week, signaling that an ambitious plan by Fusco Corp. to build a residential tower on the site may be on hold due to flooding concerns.

Valentin Stakaj, owner of Adriana’s in New Haven and La Lupa Ristorante in North Haven, launched his newest Italian eatery at 501 Long Wharf in a soft opening this week. Completely revamped from its days as a budget seafood stop, the new restaurant has more than 200 seats and an enlarged bar overlooking the water that seats 33.

The menu will be small and feature Italian-inflected meats, pastas and seafood with daily specials highlighting seasonal ingredients, Stakaj said. Prices will be moderate and meals will come with sides, he added. A grand opening is planned in the coming weeks. 

“It’s a steakhouse with an Italian concept,” Stakaj said. “It's always been my dream.”

Named “Il Gabbiano” — Italian for “seagull” – the space features lots of marble, steel and glass to reflect the New Haven Harbor vista outside. Outdoor tables and chairs overlooking the water will be set up soon, Stakaj said.

Stakaj said he put more than $1 million into renovating the building, which had been home to local seafood stalwart the Rusty Scupper for decades, before housing Leon’s and Lenny & Joe’s. The space was completely empty when renovations started six months ago, and all-new equipment and fixtures had to be installed.

“Everything here is brand-new,” Stakaj said. With the expansive space and new menu, he added, “I want to accommodate all of the people who have supported me all these years.”

Fusco plans in limbo

Stakaj’s investment and long-term plans for 501 Long Wharf throw doubt on the future of an ambitious residential development on the property trumpeted not long ago as a new “gateway to New Haven.”

Developer Lynn Fusco made a splash last year when she presented plans to the city to build a pair of 10-story buildings on the 3-acre waterfront parcel that would house nearly 500 market-rate rental apartments, along with retail, a park and a sculpture garden.

New Haven officials lauded the project as critical to unlocking growth in the long-stagnant area, and the city’s alders unanimously endorsed zoning changes in November in support of the project. 

PHOTOS | CONTRIBUTED
A view from New Haven Harbor of a new development proposed by Fusco Corp. on Long Wharf.

Even so, concerns about sea level rise, flooding and storms persisted throughout the approval process. The state Department of Energy and Environmental Protection issued an advisory report recommending against the project late last year due to risk of storm surges and related flooding at the site. 

Fusco pledged to work with the state to reduce flooding risks, but little has been heard about the project so far this year.

Fusco’s attorney on the project, Matthew Ranelli, said the residential project was "ongoing."

"The restaurant is an important feature of the existing site and it makes sense to keep that portion of the site active and available for people to enjoy while the rest of the design process is ongoing," Ranelli said. 

The two-story restaurant structure, built in 1982, sits on a 1.83-acre parcel that includes 22,500 square feet of parking lot. 

Stakaj said that his new restaurant will add value to the location and that Fusco, the owners of the land, told him he would be included in any future development.

“Maybe my grandkids can see the thing happen,” Stakaj said of the residential project.

Contact Liese Klein at lklein@newhavenbiz.com.

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